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Tuesday, 4 November 2014

Duncan MacDonald’s Life Story–VI [Masonry and Crofting]

A previous blog offered a summary of Duncan MacDonald’s life story. It may be divided into a few sections of varying lengths. Here is offered the sixth part (NFC 1180, pp. 242–52) where MacDonald related to Calum Maclean his experiences of working as a mason and crofter. The opportunity has been taken to modernise the Gaelic orthography and also to offer a translation. 


Clachaireachd

Nuair a thòisich a’ Chiad Chogadh agus a dh’fhalbh mo bhràithrean b’ fheudar dhomh stad ’n a’ chlachaireachd agus làmh a thoirt air obair an fhearainn. Cha robh ann an uair sin ach an aon chruit a bh’ aig m’ athair. Ach dè bha i glè mhath seach a’ chruit às an deach ar togail agus ar n-àrach. Cha robh ann ach leth cruiteadh, bìdeag bheag shuarach ann am Bràighe Shnaoisebhal. Agus bha a-nist deagh chruit againn ann am Peighinn nan Aoireann agus ma robh an cogadh seachad fhuair mi fhìn tè eile gu math dlùth dhith agus bha an uair sin an cothrom agam na b’ fheàrr air àiteach a dhèanamh. Agus nuair a chaidh an sin a’ chiad chogadh seachad thòisich mi a-rithist air clachaireachd, a chionn bhiodh mo bhràthair a-staigh an uair sin daonnan agus nuair a thàinig scim[1] nan taighean a-mach a-null ann an 1930 cha robh e furasda na bh’ ann de dh’ obair a dhèanamh, sìon ach taigh thall is taigh a-bhos, am fear nach robh taigh ùr aige ri dhèanamh, bha taigh aige ri ath-leasachadh agus mar sin bha a’ chùis a’ dol air aghaidh fuathasach trang agus chuir sinn a-staigh application sinn fhìn airson an taigh againn fhìn a dhol fo scheme agus ath-leasachadh a dhèanamh air. Cha robh air againn an toiseach ach ceann zinc agus naoi troighean a dh’ àirde as a’ bhalla. ’S e taigh a bh’ ann a chaidh a thogail le loan a’ Chongested Districts Board, loan dà fhichead nòt’ agus bha sin a’ dol a choveradh a h-uile sìon a chaidh a dhèanamh, gach fiodh is iarann is aol agus an luchd-ceirde. Agus a-nist cha d’ fhuair sinn beantail dhan taigh againn fhìn leis cho trang ’s a bha mise ri taighean eile gus an do stad an sin a’ scheme agus ’s ann an 1933 an uair sin a fhuair mise tòiseachadh air an taigh againn fhìn. Agus bha mo bhràthair na shaor agus rinn sinn an taigh. Chuir sinn tuilleadh àirde air a’ bhalla agus thog sinn an lota suas na b’ àirde na bha i roimhe agus phioc is ghlan sinn am balla a-muigh agus a-staigh agus chaidh gabhail aige agus cement a chur ris mun cuairt air an taobh a-muigh agus rough cast agus ceann sgliat agus d’ fheumamaid tuilleadh ceangalaichean a chuir fon sgliat seach mar a bha fon t-zinc agus fhuair sinn sin a dhèanamh. Agus cha robh an uair sin scheme thaighean idir ann ach bha duine an dithis ann nach b’ urrainn feitheamh ris an ath scheme agus chaidh mise gu fear aca sin, fear Niall Mac Alasdair ’ic Theàrlaich ann an Loch Sgiobard. Agus thog mi taigh dha ann an 1936. Agus ’s ann nuair a bha mi a’ togail an taighe sin a dh’ eug mo chiad mhac ann an Invergarry. Agus chuir sin moill orm mun d’ fhuair mi a h-uile sìon air dòigh dha thaobh. Agus ann an 1935 thog mi taigh do dh’ Eairdsidh mac Iain Mhaoir ann an t-Hogh Beag. Agus an sin ann a 1937 thàinig a’ scheme a-mach air ais agus a neo-ar-thaing nach robh ruaig air clachairean an uair sin agus air luchd-ceirde. Agus chaidh mi an uair sin a thogail taighe chon a’ Mhuilleir Ruaidh air a’ Chàrnan agus bha taigh eile agam ga thogail air taobh à deas Loch Baghasdal agus bha a dhà agam ga chumail air aghaidh aig an aon àm. Bhithinn greis mu seach aig gach fear dhiubh gus an deach crìoch a chuir orra. Agus bha mi direach aig an taigh a bh’ ann an Loch Baghasdal ann an 1939 nuair a chuala mi gun robh Hilter air tòiseachadh air cogadh ann am Poland. Agus bha mi cinnteach gu leòr an uair sin gum biodh mo mhac air a thogail. Agus chaidh sin a dhèanamh cuideachd agus bha an uair sin an tacsa air a thoirt bhuam a-rithist. Agus thòisich an cogadh agus chaidh mo mhac a thogail air falbh O! sa mhinoid. Agus cha robh an uair sin mòran agam mu dhèidhinn clachaireachd ach bha mi a’ dèanamh beagan an-dràsta agus a-rithist a thaobh gun robh mo bhràthair a-staigh còmhla rium. Ach co-dhiù cha do rinn mi mòran de thaighean ùra tuilleadh ach cha robh samhradh nach dèanainn beagan air choireigin. Chaidh mi gu taigh Aonghais ’ic Dhùghaill ’ic Ìomhair air taobh deas Loch Baghasdal. ’S e taigh a bh’ ann nach robh ann ach dà cheann cloicheadh agus cliathaichean zinc is bhathar ga lathadh ann is thug mi às air a’ bhliadhna a bh’ ann an seo ann an 1942 an darna cliathach agus chuir mi suas cliathaich ùr ann le concrete agus air an ath-bhliadhna ann an ’43 chaidh mi ’uige a-rithist agus thug mi an cùl às agus chuir mi cliathach ùr ann a sin de choncrete agus chuir mi scullery a-mach às. Agus ann an 1944 a-rithist thàine mi chon a’ Chàrnain a dh’ obair gu Domhnall a’ Mhuileich agus chuir mi air dòigh shed mòr a bh’ ann a shineach is tha e ri fhaichinn fhathast, a chaidh na theine aig an duine a bh’ ann roimhe. 

Cruit an Ainm mo Mhic

Agus an sin ann a 1938 bha fearann agus taigh a-mach ri m’ thaobh, taobh crait a bh’ aig m’ athair, agus rinn mi fhìn airson am faotainn agus chan fhaighinn i a chionn gun robh cruit roimhe agam. Ach smaointich mi an uair sin on a bha mo mhac a’ tighinn suas dlùth air fichead bliadhna, bhithinn toilichte gum faigheadh esan i agus bhruidhinn mi ris a’ bhàillidh air a shon agus chunnaic e freagarrach gu leòr gun dèanainn application ann am fàbhar mo mhic. Agus rinn mi sin. Agus fhuair mo mhac an taigh agus am fearann a bh’ ann a shin ann an 1938. Agus a-nist ann an 1939 bhrist an cogadh a-mach. Bhrist an darna Cogadh Mòr a-mach agus bha mise an uair sin a’ clachaireachd air falbh on taigh agus bha mo mhac a liostaig as na Terries agus bha e fhèin agus na bha còmhla ris air an togail as a’ mhionaid air falbh. Cha robh cothrom air. Cha robh aig an taigh is aig an fhearann ach a bhith an siod. Agus bha mi fhìn agus mo bhràthair agus na h-ingheannan a’ dèanamh air dicheall air a h-uile sìon a chumail air dòigh. Agus thàinig mo mhac dhachaigh ann an 1940 an uair sin air leave às an Fhraing. Agus nuair a dh’fhalbh e air an turas sin a-rithist, chaidh an glachadh aig St Valery agus an toirt dhan Ghearmailt agus bha e ann a shin còig bliadhna ann am prìosan.

Agus chum mise air aghaidh cho math is a b’ urra mi am fearann gus an tàinig e. Agus nuair a thàinig e fhuair mise roinn mhath de dh’ aotromachadh.         

Agus an uair sin ann an 1949 thàinig orm a dhol a Ghlaschu a-rithist. Agus ’s ann airson braodcastaidh a bha mi a’ falbh air an turas a bh’ ann an seo. Agus O! bha mi deònach gu leòr falbh. Agus bha am broadcast air a dhèanamh le David Thompson agus le Calum Maclean, fear a’ Folklore Commisson, Irish Folklore Commission agus Dr Kissling. Agus dh’fhalbh mi còmhla riutha a Ghlaschu. Agus O! chòrd an turas rium fuathasach math. Ràine sinn agus mun a ràine chuir mi wire à Malaig gu Dòmhnall Ruadh, am Bàrd ann am Paisley, (bràthair na mnà agam) gun robh mi a’ ruighinn agus choinnich e mi ann an Queen St Station. Agus dh’fhalbh mi-fhìn is e fhèin an uair sin dhachaigh gu Paisley. Agus bha dramannan againn cuideachd mun a ràine sinn Paisley. Agus an làr-na-mhàireach air an sin ràinig Calum Maclean agus David Thomson mi ann am Paisley agus dh’fhalbh mi fhìn is iad fhèin an uair sin dhan Bhroadcasting House aig Queen Margaret Drive agus chaidh am broadcast a dhèanamh ann a shin (Black House into White, 15/3/49, 3rd Programme).

Ach chuir mi aoidhreachd mhòr, mhòr air Glaschu seach mar a bha e dà fhichead bliadhna roimhe sin. Cha chluinninn aon bhuille as na garraidhean iarainn. Bha an t-àite cho sìobhalta ach bha na càraichean fuathasach, fuathasach pailt seach mar a chunna mi iad ann an 1909. Bha na càraichean beaga, chan ’il ’ios dè cho pailt is a bha iad agus bha na busaichean mòra cho tiugh air an t-sràid agus na tramways. Agus rud eile dheth bha e gu math na bu doirbhe do dhuine a rathad a dhèanamh air na busaichean agus air an tramway na bha e nuair a bha mise a-muigh ann a 1909,  a chionn bhathar ag èigheadh a h-uile h-àite a robhthar a’ stad, ainm an àite agus cha robh aig duine ach tighinn a-mach ann an sin. Ach cha robh a leithid sin a’ dol an-dràsta idir. Cha robh agad ach aithnich an t-àite a tha thu a’ dol a thighinn a-mach air no bi as a’ bhus gus a stad e. Agus thug mi colla-diag a-muigh air an turas a bh’ ann a shin agus chòrd e rium fuathasach math. Bha mi a’ dol a choimhead air daoine eòlach fhad ’s a bha mi ann cuideachd. Neo-ar-thaing nach biodh cridhealas againn còmhladh ann an sin. Thill mi an uair sin dhachaigh agus an ceann seachdain às a dheaghaidh sin, chuala mi mi fhìn air a wireless agus ’s gann gun tuiginn gura mi a bh’ ann idir, mura b’ e gun robh fios againn air. Cha robh mi ag aithneachadh mo ghuth fhìn idir agus bha mi uair na dhà on uair sin air a’ wireless agus dh’fhàs mi fuathasach eòlach an uair sin air a’ chùis mar a bha e a’ dol.

Ann an 1944 bha obair a’ Cefoil air tòiseachasdh, ach bha e fuathasach doirbh dhomh-sa a dhol an uair sin gu staimh ged a bhathar a’ sìor-iarraidh orm agus gun agam a-staigh còmhla rium ach mo bhràthair agus mo mhac na phrìosanach às a’ Ghearmailt. Agus an sin ann a 1945 stad an cogadh agus gu dearbha bha mi fhìn toilichte agus thàinig mo mhac dhachaigh aig a’ Bhealltainn a bh’ ann an sin. Agus ann a 1946 thòisich mise air na staimh an uair sin a-rithist nuair a fhuair mi mo mhac a-staigh nam àite agus chan eil bhliadhna on uair sin nach eil mi a’ dèanamh glè mhath air na staimh. Agus bha a’ phris a’ chiad bhliadhna trì notaichean. Bha e a’ còrdadh rium-sa fuathasach math agus bha deifir mòr ann seach nuair a bha mi ag obair air not air an todhar. Bha an-dràsta trì oirre agus ’s mi bha riaraichte. Chaidh an sin àrdachadh gu trì is a deich. Bha seo na b’ fheàrr buileach. Chaidh an sin àrdachadh gu ceithir agus am bliadhna ann an 1950 tha e ceithir puinn is a còig deug agus ma nì duine seachd tuna de chudan (cudthrom) tha còig notaichean air gach tunna.

A bharrachd air na staimh thoisich a’ cefoil air gabhail na feamann agus bha iad sna lochannan air taobh an-ear na dùthcha a’ dèanamh mòran, mòran gearraidh agus a’ cruinneachadh mòran dhen fheamainn agus ga thoirt a-staigh gu tìr. Ach bha sin na b’ fhasa gu mòr dhaibh na air an taobh an-iar far an robh sinne agus ’s e a-niste làrraidhean muinntir na dùthcha a bha gan tarraing às na lochannan suas eadar Beinne na Faoghla agus Loch Baghasdal a dh’ ionnsaigh a’ cefoil agus i a’ falbh fliuch agus bha roinn dhith a’ falbh tioram cuideachd. Nan tioramaiche sibh i bha sibh a’ faighinn am barrachd pàighidh airson an tuna dhith tioram. Agus am fear a chuireadh suas fluich i, bha e a’ faighinn deagh phàigheadh san tuna cuideachd.  Chan urra mi a ràdha de urad gad a bha mi fhìn ris an obair agus ’s ann a rèir an astair a-rithist air a robhar ga tarraing a bha an làrraidh air am pàigheadh às an luchd.

An làrraidh a bheireadh luchd à Beinne na Faoghla bha barrachd aice air a shon agus a bhiodh aig an làrraidh a bheireadh luchd a-staigh a Loch Baghasdal. Agus bhiodh an làrraidh a thigeadh a Loch Aineort a-rithist, bhiodh i na b’ fheàrr air am pàigheadh na làrraidh Loch Baghasdal agus a Loch Sgiobard bhiodh i sin na b’ fheàrr air am pàigheadh a-rithist a chionn bha an t-astar na b’ fhaide. Agus mar sin. Agus a’ bhliadhna a bh’ ann an seoach cha robh an samhradh fuathsach math agus bha iad a’  faighinn mòran, mòran feamann agus ’s ann a chaidh roinn dhith a dholaidh orra. Cha d’ fhuair iad turadh dhith idir agus cha do dh’iarr na h-uiread dhith riamh on a’ bhliadhna sin. Ach bha iad a’ faighinn ach bha iad a’ faighinn mun stamh na bu phailte ach gu dearbha air a’ bhliadhna a bh’ ann an seo, cha robh stamh cho pailt air na cladaichean idir agus cha robh an todhar fhèin ann, a bhiodh daoine daonnan a’ cuir air an talamh, cha robh e idir cho pailt air na cladaichean. Ach duine òg sam bith an-diugh cha ruigeadh e a leas sìon a dhìth airgid a bhith air airson gabhail chon a’ chladaich agus e a bhith ag obair air na staimh. Dhèanadh e airgead gu leòr ann agus tha mise am beachd agus tha mi cinnteach as gun dèanadh fear sam bith na b’ fheàrr ann na a dhol a dh’ obair a Ghlaschu, gum biodh barrachd airgid aig fear san dùthaich air na staimh na fear Ghlaschu nam paigheadh e a loidseadh.

Masonry

When the First World War began and my brothers had left I had to give up masonry and to put my hand to working the land. There was only then the one croft that my father had. But it was very good in comparison to the croft in which we had been brought up and nurtured. It was only half a croft, a little wee, insignificant one in Brae Snishival. And now we had a good croft in Peninerine and before the war had ended I myself got another one quite close to it and it the best opportunity to work the land. And when the first war was ended I began masonry again because my brother would always be at home then and when a scheme came out for [building] houses way back in 1930 when there wasn’t much employment, only a house here and a house there, if a man who didn’t have to build a new house, then he had a house to be improved and therefore matters were moving on terribly busy and we put in an application for our own house to go under the scheme in order to improve it. We only had to begin with a zinc roof and nine feet high on the wall. It was a house that had been built with a Congested Districts Board loan, a loan of forty pounds and that was going to cover everything that was done, each bit of wood and iron and lime and the craftsmen. And now we didn’t touch our own house as I was so busy with other houses until the scheme came to an end in 1933 and then I got a start on our own house. And my brother was a joiner and we did the house up. We built up the wall and we built the ruins up higher than is had before and we picked and cleaned the wall outside and inside and all went well and cement was put around the outside and rough cast and a sleat roof and we had to put more ties under the sleat compared to that when it was under size and we got that done. And there was not then a housing scheme at all but there was one or two who could not wait until the next scheme and went to one of them, a man called Niall Mac Alasdair ’ic Theàrlaich in Lockskiport. And I built a house for him in 1936. And it was while I was building that house that my son died in Invergarry. And that delayed me before I got everything arranged for him. And in 1935 I built a house for Eairsidh mac Iain Mhaoir in Howbeg. And in 1937 a scheme came out again and thankfully there wes not many masons or craftsmen away. And I went then to build a house for the Red-haired Miller in Carnan and I had another house to build on the southside of Lochboisdale and I had two of them to keep going at the same time. I used to take turns spending a while at each one of them until I had completed them. And I was just at the house in Lochboisdale in 1939 when I heard that Hilter had started the war in Poland. And I knew sure enough then that my son would be called up. And that happened as well and then my support was taken away from me again. And the war began and my son was called up Oh, in a minute’s time. And I didn’t then have much truck with masonry but I was doing a little now and again because my brother was staying with me. But in any case I never did built many more houses but there was not a summer that I didn’t do a little bit of work or another. I went to the house of Aonghas mac Dhùghaill ’ic Ìomhair on the south side of Lochboisdale. The house only consisted of two stone-made gables with zinc sides and it was laid but I removed it that year in 1942 the second of the sides and I put a new side of concrete and the next year in 1943 I went over to it again and I removed the back out and I built a new side of concrete and I dismantled the scullery. And in 1944 again I came over to Carnan to work on Donald (the Mullman’s) house and I arranged a big shed there and it’s still to be seen, that had been put on fire by the man who owned it before. 

The Croft in my Son’s Name 


And in 1938 there was land and a house by my side, besides my father’s croft, and I went to get the land but I couldn’t get it because I had a croft before. But then I thought that since my son was going to be nearly twenty years of age, I’d be happy that he’d get it and I spoke to the bailiff on his behalf and I saw that it was appropriate enough that I should make an application in my son’s favour. I did that. And my son got the house and the land there in 1938. And now in 1939 the war broke out. The Second World War broke out and I was then working on masonry away from home and my son enlisted in the Terries (Territorials) and he and those along with him were called up in a minute and were away. He had no choice. The house and the land remained where they were. And I and my brother and daughter were doing our best to keep everything going. And my son came home in 1940 then on leave from France. And when he left again on that trip, he was captured at St Valery and taken to Germany and he was there in prison for five years.

And I kept on going as best I could working land until he returned. And when he came back I good a good bit of relief.

And then in 1949 it so happened that I went to Glasgow again. And I was away on this trip for broadcasting. And Oh! I was willing enough to leave. And the broadcast was done by David Thompson and by Calum Maclean, the man from the Folklore Commission, Irish Folklore Commission and Dr. Kissling. And I left along with them to Glasgow. And Oh! I enjoyed this trip terribly well. We arrived and before I arrived I sent a wire from Mallaig to Donald Ruadh MacIntyre, the Bard in Paisley, (my brother-in-law) and I was going to arrive and I met him at Queen St Station. And I and he then went home to Paisley. And we drank a few drams too before we arrived in Paisley. And the next day Calum Maclean and David Thomson arrived in Paisley and  I and themselves then went to the Broadcasting House at Queen Margaret Drive and the broadcast was made there (Black House into White, 15/3/49, 3rd Programme). But there was a big, big, difference with regard to Glasgow in comparison to what it had been forty years ago. I didn’t hear any of the noise in the iron works. The place was so civilised and there was cars were terribly, terribly common compared to what I had seen in 1909. There were smaller cars, I don’t know how common they were and the large buses were so broad on the street, and the tramways. And other thing, it was quite more difficult for a person to make it around on the buses and on the tramway that it was when I was out in 1909, for they were shouting out at every stop where they were stopping, the name of the place and any person had to get off then. But there was nothing like that going on now at all. You had to know place where you were going to get off or else you’d be on the bus till it stopped. And I spent a fortnight away on that trip and I enjoyed it terribly well. I was going to see the people I knew while as there as well. Thankfully we would have enjoyed being in together there. Then I returned home and a week after that, I heard myself on the wireless and I scarcely recognised that it was me at all, if we didn’t already know. I didn’t recognise my voice at all and since then I’ve been once or twice on the wireless and since then I’ve got to know it well of how these things go.

The Cefoil work began in 1944, and it was terribly difficult for me to go then to the seaweed although they really wanted me and it was only me and my brother at home as my son was a prisoner-of-war in Germany. And then in 1945 the war ended and indeed I was happy that my son [Donald John] came home that May Day. And in 1946 I began work on the seaweed again when my son was in my place and a year hasn’t passed by that I haven’t done well with the seaweed. The price in the first year was £3. I really enjoyed it as there was a big difference when I once worked for £1 on manure. It is now £3 and I am satisfied with that. That had risen to £4 in 1950 and it is 4 pounds and fifteen and if a person has seven tons of weight then they receive £5 per ton.

As well as the seaweed the Cefoil began to take in seaweed and they were in the lochs on the east side doing a great deal of cutting and gathering in a great deal of seaweed and taking it into the shore. This was far easier for them than on the west coast where we were and now they have lorries which transport them from the lochs between Benbecula and Lochboisdale to Cefoil and it is transported wet as well as dry. The dryer it is the better the return is for a ton of dry seaweed. And if it was wet, then there was also a good return for a ton of wet seaweed. I couldn’t say what amount even though I was involved in the work but this depends on the distance it was transported and much a lorry-load would pay for the cargo.

There was more cargo on a lorry from Benbecula than those from Lochboisdale. A lorry that came from Locheynort would be better paid than a lorry from Lochboisdale and one from Loch Sgiobard was better than that because it was a longer distance and so on. The summer past was not particularly good and they were getting much, much seaweed and a part of it went rotten. They didn’t get a dry spell at all and that year not as much was requested of it. But they were finding but they were finding the oarweed more plentiful but indeed that very year the oarweed was not so plentiful around the shorelines at all and the manure itself, that would always put on the land, it was not so plentiful around the shorelines. But for any young man these days they don’t need any money to take to the shore and to be working on the oarweed. He could make enough money and I’m of the opinion and I’m sure of it that any man would be better doing that than going to work in Glasgow, that the local man would have more money working on the seaweed that then Glasgow man if he could get his lodgings paid.

Reference:
NFC 1180, pp. 111–256

Image: \
Duncan MacDonald, 1951, Peninerine, South Uist, by Dr Werner Kissling. By courtesy of the School of Scottish Studies, University of Edinburgh.


[1] Scheme.
[2] Donald John MacDonald wrote his memoires of this time published as Fo Sgàl na Swasticka , ed and trans. by Bill Innes.

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